Torino

The Place

Torino is on Chau Thi Vinh Te in My An, and the thing that separates it from every other Italian place in this part of town is the counter you walk past on the way in. Real sourdough, dark and seeded, the kind with a crust that argues back. Fruit croissants under glass with strawberries, blueberries and apricot on custard. A whole case of small cakes and pastries with the prices written on cards. Most restaurants here buy their bread in. This one makes it, and then cooks a full Italian menu behind it. Pizza comes out with prosciutto, rocket, shaved parmesan and a torn ball of burrata in the middle. Carbonara arrives the way it should, glossy and peppered, no cream in sight. It is open from eight in the morning to nine at night every day, which means it works as a bakery for breakfast, a restaurant for dinner, and somewhere to sit with a coffee and a pastry in between.